The Weather
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The Elopement Gazette
Arman Arai’s journal of marriages made quietly · Est. MMXXVI
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Feature · Canada

How to Elope in Vancouver, Where the Rain Is the Point

Ocean, old growth and an alpine summit inside one afternoon, no permit for most of it, and a hundred dollar licence. The case for the city everyone treats as an airport.

Most couples treat Vancouver as the place you land before you drive to Whistler. I understand why. It is a city, it rains, and the mountains everyone has seen photographs of are two hours up the highway.

I have shot here for years and I think that is a mistake, for reasons of geography rather than loyalty. There is nowhere else in the country where you can stand on an ocean beach, walk into old growth rainforest, and be on an alpine summit, inside a single afternoon, without ever being on a highway for more than forty minutes.

(Continued on Page 2, Col. 1)

A couple on the rocks at Whytecliff Park above the sea near Vancouver
A couple on the rocks at Whytecliff Park above the sea near Vancouver
Photograph by Arman Arai.
Page two

The rain, which is the actual subject

A couple in the rain in the forest near Vancouver
Overcast is a softbox the size of the sky. Bring a clear umbrella.

Let me deal with this first, because it is the objection everyone opens with.

Vancouver gets around 160 rainy days a year. That is not a risk to manage, it is the climate, and if you book between October and April you should assume rain rather than hope against it.

Now the part that took me years to properly believe. Grey days photograph better than blue ones. Overcast is a softbox the size of the sky: no hard shadows, no squinting, no blown highlights on a white dress, and the greens of a rainforest are never richer than when they are wet. My photographs from rainy days are consistently better than the ones from clear days, and it is not close.

What rain actually costs you is the mountain view, and only sometimes. Low cloud in a forest is atmosphere. Low cloud on a summit is a white wall. So the plan adapts: ceiling down, we go into the trees and along the water; ceiling up, we go up. I make that call on the morning after looking at the radar, and it is one of the more useful things you are paying for.

Bring a clear umbrella, not a black one. It lets light through and it will end up in some of your favourite frames.

Page three

Where the day actually happens

Lighthouse Park, West Vancouver. The best old growth inside the city limits. Trees that were standing centuries before Vancouver existed, on granite that runs straight down into the sea. Twenty minutes from downtown and it feels like a different province. It is my most used location and I am mildly reluctant to keep saying so.

Whytecliff Park. Rock, ocean, and an island you can walk out to at low tide, which is a detail worth planning your ceremony hour around. Check the tide table, not just the sunset.

Cypress and the North Shore mountains. Drivable alpine, which is rare. Twenty five minutes from the city edge and you are above the cloud with the whole Lower Mainland underneath you. On the right evening the cloud sits below you and it looks like an ocean.

Deep Cove. Flat water, boats, and a village that still feels like one. Good for a couple who want gentle rather than dramatic, and good in rain.

Stanley Park. Yes, really. Everyone writes it off as the tourist option and then you get onto the interior trails and it is a genuine rainforest with a city wrapped around it. Prospect Point at blue hour with the bridge lit is a Vancouver photograph in a way nothing else is.

A couple among old growth trees at Lighthouse Park, West Vancouver
Lighthouse Park: trees older than the city, twenty minutes from downtown.
Page four

Half in the city, half out of it

A couple above the Lions Gate Bridge with Vancouver behind them
Two worlds in one day, and about forty minutes of driving between them.

This is the thing Vancouver does better than anywhere else I work, and almost nobody asks for it.

You can split the day in half. Morning downtown, getting ready somewhere with a view, ceremony among old trees on the North Shore, a proper lunch. Then the second half leaves the city entirely: up Cypress for alpine, or out to the water at Whytecliff, or forty minutes up the Sea to Sky to Squamish where the granite walls start and the sound opens out.

Two completely different worlds, one day, no flights, and about forty minutes of total driving between them. The gallery ends up with brick and rooms and city light in the first half and rock, ocean and mountain in the second, which is a much better book than eight hours in one place.

It also runs the other way. Beach in the morning, city at night. Forest first, rooftop last. Tell me what you want each half to feel like and I will build it. The tier prices the day, not the number of landscapes we put in it.

Page five

The legal part, which is genuinely easy

A BC marriage licence is $100, issued the same day at any licence agent, valid three months. Two witnesses over nineteen and a licensed marriage commissioner. No residency requirement, no waiting period, no paperwork from your home country.

It is worth saying how unusual that is. Couples come to me from countries where a legal marriage takes months of documents, and British Columbia hands it over in an afternoon.

Most of the places above are municipal or regional park land where a small ceremony needs no permit at all. Some parks want one once you are setting up chairs or an arch, and the rules differ by municipality rather than following one provincial standard. I check the specific park rather than guessing, because assuming it will be fine is how people get moved on.

A couple during a small ceremony in a Vancouver park
A hundred dollars, same day, three months. Very few places are this simple.
Page six

What it costs, and exactly why it is less

A couple above the cloud on Cypress Mountain with Vancouver beneath them
Cypress in the last two hours, with the city switching on underneath.

Vancouver is C$4,800 for the Blueprint and C$6,900 for the Signature. Second cheapest on my Canadian list, above only Jasper and Revelstoke, and well under Whistler, Tofino and Banff.

The reason is not that the day is smaller. It is straightforward cost, on my side and yours:

No travel outside the city. Everything is inside forty minutes, so there is no long transport day, no overnight for me, no fuel and hours built into your number.

Vendors cost less here. An officiant, a florist, hair and makeup and a driver in a city of two and a half million charge city rates. The same people in a resort town charge resort rates, because they have a twelve week season to earn a year in.

The activities are cheaper. A gondola, a boat in the harbour or a long dinner is not a helicopter onto a glacier. Same day, same coverage, a fraction of the experience cost.

Dinner is not a captive market. A great table in Vancouver competes with a thousand other great tables. A great table in Banff competes with about nine.

You get more day for the money here than anywhere else I work in Canada. That is the actual argument for eloping in Vancouver and almost nobody makes it.

Page seven

A route I would actually build

To make it concrete, a real shape for a Signature day in September.

Getting ready somewhere with soft light and a view. Out to Lighthouse Park by mid morning while the trails are still empty, ceremony among the old trees, which stays sheltered whatever the sky is doing. Down to the water at Whytecliff for the rock and the sea. A long lunch somewhere unhurried, because the middle of the day is not worth fighting for.

Then up Cypress in the late afternoon and onto the ridge for the last two hours, which in September means arriving around six and staying until the city switches on beneath you. Dinner after, in town, still in the clothes.

Three landscapes, one city, one day. Signature is written as eight hours of photography, and as in Banff that is the coverage rather than the length of the day: I am with you from early until it is properly dark.

A couple on the seawall trails in Stanley Park, Vancouver
Stanley Park: a genuine rainforest with a city wrapped around it.
Page eight

If you want the Rockies look, I can do that too

A couple high in the Canadian Rockies with peaks behind them
The mountain version is a different kind of planning, and a bigger budget.

Vancouver cannot give you a turquoise glacial lake with a wall of white peaks behind it. That is Banff, Jasper, Whistler or Revelstoke, and no amount of driving up a logging road here will fake it.

I plan and photograph in all of them, so this is not me sending you elsewhere. It is a different kind of planning and it reads differently in both the photographs and the film: bigger country, longer approaches, weather that makes the decisions, permits in the national parks, and a day that is mostly landscape rather than mostly texture and light.

It also costs more, and I would rather be blunt about why. Banff is C$7,500 and C$9,100 against Vancouver at C$4,800 and C$6,900, because resort town vendors, longer transport and the experiences that make a mountain day worth doing all cost more. Give me the bigger budget and I will absolutely build you the mountain version. Just do not ask me to deliver a mountain day on a city budget, because the honest answer is that I cannot.

Page nine

Four things I would tell you before you book

Check the tide, not just the sunset. Half the good coastal spots are a different place at high water. This catches people out constantly.

Do not plan around a clear sky. Build a day that works wet and treat sun as a bonus. The couples who spend the week before refreshing a forecast have a worse time than the ones who decided in advance that rain was fine.

Traffic is the hidden constraint. Crossing a bridge at five in the afternoon can cost you forty minutes you budgeted as fifteen. I route around the crossings at the wrong hour, which is unglamorous and matters more than most of the pretty decisions.

Give the day a middle. The temptation in a city is to chain six locations. Do not. Three, properly, with a real meal between them, is a better day and a better gallery.

The pricing is here. A full day, start to finish, is here. Or tell me what you are picturing and I will tell you honestly whether this is the right coast for it.

A couple on the calm water at Deep Cove near Vancouver
Three locations, properly, with a real meal between them.
Planning your own Vancouver elopement? I design, book, photograph and film the whole day.The Vancouver elopement page →
Page ten · Classified dispatches
© MMXXVI The Elopement Gazette · Printed nightly in the darkroom of Arman Araiarmanarai.com/blog · Set in Cormorant & Jost