The Weather
Tulum — clearing by four, golden hour holding late. Ideal light.
The Elopement Gazette
Arman Arai’s journal of marriages made quietly · Est. MMXXVI
Price: one exposure
Printed nightly in the darkroom. Delivered at dusk, by owl or by inbox.
FeatureTulum

Tulum Too Crowded? Elope in Bacalar Instead

Tulum has become expensive, busy, and beset by seaweed. A few hours south, Bacalar's Lagoon of Seven Colors gives you impossible turquoise water and near-total quiet, for far less. The honest case.

Tulum was the dream a decade ago. Today it is expensive, crowded, and, for much of the year, fighting a tide of sargassum seaweed on its beaches. If the Tulum you have in your head is turquoise water and boho calm, the honest truth is you will find more of it a few hours south.

Bacalar sits on the Lagoon of Seven Colors, a freshwater lagoon so clear and so vividly blue it looks edited, with a fraction of Tulum's crowds and prices.

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A couple eloping on a dock over the turquoise Lagoon of Seven Colors in Bacalar
Photograph — Tulum · the picture moves
Readers are advised the subjects may wander out of frame.
What happened to Tulum

Tulum's beauty is real, but so is its reinvention into a high-priced, heavily booked destination, with beach clubs, traffic, and the seaweed problem that no filter fixes. For an elopement, that means paying premium rates to share your backdrop with a lot of other people.

A couple eloping on a dock over the turquoise Lagoon of Seven Colors in Bacalar
A couple eloping on a dock over the turquoise Lagoon of Seven Colors in Bacalar — stationary
Page two

What happened to Tulum

Tulum's beauty is real, but so is its reinvention into a high-priced, heavily booked destination, with beach clubs, traffic, and the seaweed problem that no filter fixes. For an elopement, that means paying premium rates to share your backdrop with a lot of other people.

Page three

Bacalar, the water Tulum wishes it still had

Because the lagoon is freshwater, there is no sargassum, and the colour, banded from pale turquoise to deep indigo, is genuinely unreal. A wooden dock over the water, a boat at dawn, the cenotes at the lagoon's edge: it is serene, photogenic, and still refreshingly under the radar. It costs meaningfully less than Tulum, too.

A couple on a wooden dock over the vivid turquoise Bacalar lagoon
The Lagoon of Seven Colors: freshwater, no seaweed, and a stillness Tulum lost years ago. — stationary
Page four

The honest tradeoff

Bacalar is smaller and quieter, about four hours south of Cancún, so the nightlife and the polished resort scene of the Riviera Maya are not here. That is the whole point. If you want beach clubs, stay north. If you want the most beautiful water in the region and the calm to enjoy it, Bacalar wins easily.

See the full Bacalar elopement guide →

Page twelve — Classified dispatches
© MMXXVI The Elopement Gazette · Printed nightly in the darkroom of Arman Araiarmanarai.com/blog · Set in Cormorant & Jost